For families with small children, Nepal is an unlikely destination to spend time in the outdoors, but after three weeks on the Annapurna Circuit, I’m happy to say that it has been one of the best family adventures we’ve tackled so far.
With superb mountain views, intriguing cultures to encounter, and enough teahouses and hotels dotted along its trails to make trekking a breeze, adventures in the world’s highest hiking wonderland are hard to beat.
The Nepalese simply ADORE children too. But how do plan for and enjoy the experience as a family when you have one or more small children in tow?
In preparing for our trip, I failed to read much that inspired me to take our child trekking, and successive online searches only inflamed my concerns about altitude sickness and whether our child could handle the walking, the basic guesthouse conditions, and most importantly, have fun.
Even the world’s leading guidebook to trekking in Nepal advises against exactly the sort of trip we’ve just done with our four-year-old daughter. But knowing our child, who absolutely thrives in the outdoors, and being prepared to take our time and move at her pace, we forged ahead.
If you scour the Internet in search of good advice and encouragement, don’t be surprised if the ‘experts’ turn you off the idea completely.
On the trail, our little powerhouse Maya walked most of the way under her own steam, (with the occasional shoulder ride from Dad), and we managed the trip without a guide or porter simply by carrying less gear, relying on a good maps app and taking our time.
In Nepal, teahouse trekking frees you from the burden of hauling camping and cooking gear, with everything from warm bedding and hot showers to good meals and essential supplies readily available on major trekking routes. All you need is comfortable clothing and shoes, a great attitude and perhaps a pocketful of treats.
Our Annapurna Route
Our chosen route was a moderate one out of Pokhara up the very civilised western side of the famed Annapurna Circuit, from Tatopani to Jomsom to experience the Tibetan-style culture and dramatic moonscape of Lower Mustang.
The fact that a 4WD track now parallels the trekking route up the Kali Gandaki valley disappoints many travellers, but for parents with small kids it’s a godsend, providing an escape of sorts in the case of injury, accident or if things just don’t go according to plan.
Although the road is a rugged ordeal, mini buses and 4WD vehicles travel the route, and when conditions permit, planes fly out of Jomsom, a week’s walk up the trail.





A bonus for us was that the little-travelled upper section of the road beyond Tatopani proved perfect for walking hand-in-hand with our child, who could easily tackle the gentle gradient.
There was very little traffic on the road during the July-August monsoon (usually because landslides stalled all vehicles), and the scenery rivalled the sometimes tougher Annapurna Circuit foot trail just across the river. In the end, we switched back and forth between the two, moving slowly upriver.
Days on the trail provided so much to enjoy. We stood beneath thundering waterfalls and skipped through muddy puddles, dared each other across rickety suspension bridges, and spent sunny afternoons with our boots off sipping pots of milky marsala tea.
We picked apricots and daises, petted tiny donkeys and peered into ancient monasteries. In doing so, we got fit, ate good, local food and shared stories with hundreds of locals who marvelled at the presence of our bubbly blonde child on the trail and invariably gave her the ‘thumbs up’.
Slow down, see more
While our pace was slower than most 20-something trekkers on the trail, slowing down meant we spotted lizards and birds, admired more views and had time to play en route. This was something I particularly relished.
By carrying a minimum amount of gear we were able to carry our child when she tired of trekking uphill too. Freeing ourselves from a goal-oriented itinerary meant we could stop early if the rain made us miserable, or if we discovered a really great guesthouse and some lovely way to spend the afternoon.

While we set out thinking we would walk only for about 3-4 hours each morning, our days were so full of distractions and fun and leisurely tea breaks that we usually ended up spending a bit longer on our feet each day.
Perks of Monsoon Trekking
Trekking in the monsoonal off-season (June-July) meant we enjoyed discounted rates on our rooms, which were frequently offered for free on the proviso that we ate our nightly meal at the guesthouse. The trails were distinctly crowd-free, we never had to wait long for our meals and we only experienced about five wet or partially-wet days.
There is much talk about the lack of mountain views during the monsoon season, and with good reason. Trekkers who climb the impossibly steep and neverending stone staircases in the hope of thrilling panoramic views from the top of Poon Hill are frequently disappointed during monsoon when clouds close in and leave trekkers downhearted.
By contrast, the dry, desert-like landscape of Lower Mustang (from Jomsom to Muktinath) that we trekked on the western side of the Annapurna Circuit receives very little rain. Even the high peaks of towering Dhaulagiri (8167m) and Nilgiri (7060m) were frequently revealed to us.
No doubt we just got lucky at Ghorepani when we awoke to clear skies and promptly high-tailed it up Poon Hill for sweeping views of the Annapurnas in clear, close view.








The Verdict
In all, our Mustang/Annapurna experience was a great adventure enjoyed by every member of our family. The road that has hijacked the isolation of the west’s Kali Gandaki valley conversely means that villages are well stocked and the standard of accommodation is generally good.
Trekking families will appreciate the comfortable rooms with ensuite bathrooms, the readily available (gas) hot-water showers, and menus varied enough to excite tired mini-trekkers. The cold beers and delicious locally-brewed apple cider will help to ease your weary muscles, and if you run out or forget some essentials, you won’t be stung by sky-high prices.
While I only have the experience of trekking with my child, who graduated from her backpack carrier aged 3 1/2 years and has been on her feet ever since, I wholehearted recommend this trek for all parents who believe instinctively that their kids will enjoy themselves.
These flexible, energetic little bundles frequently surprise us with their ability to adapt and enjoy their worlds; quite honestly, if you love trekking, then your enjoyment and happiness will ensure that your kids do too.
What did we pack?
Rain jackets and a small folding umbrella were indispensible for our monsoonal trek, and a tube of deet-infused Aussie insect repellent that we rubbed onto our socks may well have been the reason that I was the only one to score a leech bite!
We each had one trekking outfit (shorts/leggings, a shirt, socks and lightweight trekking boots), a spare set of long pants and shirt for nighttimes, PJs, hats, sunglasses, a fleece jumper and shower thongs. Add to this a slender assortment of toiletries, a quick-dry towel, a first aid kit, water purification tablets, a torch, water bottles and an assortment of snacks.
To keep Maya entertained we carried some small reading books, colouring-in pencils, an activity book, a few tiny dolls and a miniature tea set – all of which managed to fill the time while we waited for our teahouse meals to be served.
While I carried most of our personal gear, which I managed to roll and squeeze into my trusty 25L daypack, David hauled a heavier load of work gear – camera and lens, a laptop, hard drives, cables, adapter plugs and the tripod.
Don’t forget to apply and pay for your TIMS card (Trekkers’ Information Management System card, www.timsnepal.com and ACAP (Annapurna Conservation Area Entry Permit) before leaving Kathmandu or Pokhara, or you’ll be forced to buy them at double the price once you reach the first checking booth on the trail. Each costs 2000 Nepali rupees (about USD$20) per adult, kids under 10 years are free





Our Trek Itinerary
Distance covered is rarely discussed when trekking in the Himalaya because it’s the gradient that makes all the difference. Guidebooks generally only provide trekking times and the ascent or descent tackled between towns to help you plan your days.
We took it easy the first three-four days, tackling shorter days up the valley, and spending free afternoons climbing unencumbered by packs to higher altitudes to aid our acclimatisation. On the return journey down the valley, we doubled the distance we covered, but we were much fitter by then and it was mostly downhill.
I was especially impressed that Maya tackled the 1000+ metre climb from Tatopani to Ghorepani – the steepest and hardest section of the entire Annapurna Circuit – completely under her own steam. Similarly, she breezed down the other side of the hill, skipping and singing all the way to Naya Pul.
Our Daily Log:
For those keen to walk this way, here’s a list of where we stopped and started each day. Grab a map of the Annapurna Circuit to make sense of the distances and place names:
Travel Day: Pokhara to Beni (by bus), Beni to Ghaleshar on foot
Day 1: Ghaleshar to Tatopani (by bus), Tatopani to Dana on foot
Day 2: Trek from Dana to Ghasa
Day 3: Trek from Ghasa to Kalopani
Day 4: Trek from Kalopani to Tukuche
Day 5: Trek from Tukuche to Marpha via Tibetan Refugee Camp
Day 6: Day trip: trek from Marpha to Old Marpha
Day 7: Trek from Marpha to Old Jomsom; side trip to Thini
Day 8: Trek from Old Jomsom to Kagbeni
Day 9: Trek from Kagbeni to Ranipauwa
Day 10: Trek from Ranipauwa to Muktinath to Kagbeni
Day 11: Rest day Kagbeni
Day 12: Trek from Kagbeni to Marpha
Day 13: Trek from Marpha to Kalopani
Day 14: Trek from Kalopani to Dana
Day 15: Trek from Dana to Shikha
Day 16: Trek from Shikha to Ghorepani
Day 17: Rest day: Ghorepani to Poon Hill
Day 18: Trek from Ghorepani to Hille
Day 19: Trek from Hille to Naya Pul (then taxi to Pokhara)

We have really enjoyed your travel commentaries and David’s wonderful photography. Your intrepid travels with Maya in the monsoon season have been remarkable. Can’t wait for the next episode. Ray and Heather
Thanks Heather and Ray, really glad to have you along with our travels!
Hello,
We are a family from Alaska and we will be following this route in two days, with our two children (8 and 11). Thank you for the wonderful advise and helpful tips.
Hi Claudia, you are exactly who we wrote this story for! So happy for you all, setting out together on what will be an awesome adventure. I wish we were back in Nepal! Safe and fun travels, Catherine
Hi there!
So lovely to hear about your travel. My husband and I have done the Everest base camp trek and can’t wait to take our little one back for some trekking when she’s older (much easier trekking obviously). Just a quick question, how did you go with sleeping? Did she just bunk in with one of you or did you all just share a bigger bed? Just interested in the logistics of sleep 🙂 thank you!!
Our four-year-old mostly slept in a big bed with us, or we pushed 3 singles together in basic teahouses. We were always accommodated well, the Nepalis love kids!
We just finished our trek, following mostly your itinerary. Thank you so much for the inspiration and all the information. We would have never done this if we didn’t stumble upon your blog. As you mentioned, most experts advice against taking children to the Annapurna, so we didn’t think it was possible. After reading your blog we decided to go for it and it has been our most rewarding family adventure so far. When things got tough, we told our kids “hey, if a 4 years old can do it, so can you!”. Thank you, thank you, thank you from a very tired and happy Alaskan family. The Wakefields
Hello Wakefields! You are the reason David and I started this website – to remind adventurous couples that the adventures don’t have to stop when we become parents, and most importantly, to show how amazing our kids prove themselves to be when we are brave enough to let them live, breathe and have fun in the wild, wild world! Thank you for confirming that there is an audience for all these grand adventures! Please share our stories, keep sharing yours and lets talk big about families doing great things that no one really expects us to do! So happy that Nepal has thrilled you! We can’t wait to get back and tackle another trail. Keep in touch, there’s more to come.
Hi Claudia, we are planning to take our 2 boys (8 and 11) in March. They are adventurous, but we’re in the Philippines, so we’re a bit concerned regarding the altitude change. How was your experience?
Hi James,
The key to acclimatisation for all ages is to begin trekking as low as you can, take things slowly, ascend no more than 300m once you are above 3200m in altitude and always assume that if your child becomes unusually tired, cranky, doesn’t sleep well, doesn’t want to eat or develops a headache, that you are dealing with mild AMS and watch them like a hawk. If things get worse, be prepared to descend to the last altitude that your child was well at. I have posted an article on exactly this topic so check it out:
https://www.wildtravelstory.com/2016/10/04/acute-mountain-sickness/
Enjoy your big adventure,
Catherine
Thanks a lot , I am a regular trekker but want to do annapurna circuit with my 12 yr old son this November . Your blog solved lot of queries .
That’s great news Disha, we hope to connect with a lot more adventurous parents just like you! Enjoy your trek!
Your trek is inspiring! Thanks for sharing the details. Our son, nearly 7, has a serious fear of heights. How many bridges did you have to cross?
Hi Casey, 7 years is a perfect age to trek! We probably crossed 3 or 4 low bridges and a couple a high ones just for fun. Depending on the season (we trekked in monsoon when there was more water flow), these might not have very much water gushing so would appear quite benign to cross. Good luck with your trek, let us know how you go!
Great to hear there are not too many bridges! Thanks!
Hi guys, what a wonderful article! Thanks so much for sharing it. What was the highest elevation point on your route? I am looking into the Annapourna circuit right now and looks like there many different itineraries, right? We travel with 2 kids, one will be 3 and another 1 year old by the time we are in Nepal.
Thanks!
Hi, on our trek, Muktinath was our high point at 3800m. I recommend that you break up the distance between Kagbeni and Ranipauwa with a night at Jharkot, otherwise the ascent is too much, especially for kids. We loved this route and really recommend it. The road from Beni to the top may be busier than on our monsoon trek (few travellers, a couple of landslides that held off the 4WDs), but you can always cross over to the other side of the river and walk sections of the Annapurna track proper. We mixed it up and enjoyed the best of both. We are headed back to Nepal this season so feel free to email me – we’d love to hear how you all go and swap stories from the trail! Have a great trek.
Thanks a lot for the info . I am from India and will hike with my 12 year old to Annapurna circuit this March . Your tips will come handy surely.
Hi Disha, let us know how your adventure goes. Plenty of Wild Travel Story readers are keen to trek Annapurna with their kids so keep the conversation going. Have a great trip, we will be trekking in Nepal this season too!
Hi , I completed the summit at Thorong La pass with my 12 yr old son on 14th March . It was an exhilarating experience . I shall be blogging on it soon
That’s a great effort Disha, a terrific challenge for your both.
Hi Catherine and Bringbabyabroad! I’m looking into the Annapourna circuit for the next december or january, also with my 2 years old boy. So I reaaally want to hear your experience whit your 3 and 1 years old kids! How many days did you make? We’re thinking someting shorter, like 7 days. Any tip will be so great. Thanks!
Hi Gabriela,
To complete the entire Annapurna Circuit is a 3-week loop over quite a high pass, but a 7-day trip flying into Jomsom and hiking to Kagbeni and Muktinath and back (maybe with a detour south to Marpha) is totally doable in a week and an excellent route that only takes you to 3800m. I would really recommend this. Remember that December/January is quite cold in Nepal so bring or buy in Kathmandu a good down jacket (they sell tiny sizes too).
We actually met Bringbabyabroad on our recent trek to Mount Everest Base Camp – we made it with our 6-year-old, they took their 1 and 3 year olds, so everything is possible with time and patience.
Best of luck – feel free to get back with any questions and let us know how you go!
Catherine
Hi Catherine, good to read posts about trekking in Nepal. As you wrote, trek with children in Himalayas of Nepal is safer, easier and exciting.
Thanks Sudip, Nepal is a great playground for kids who love the outdoors and kids are warmly welcomed in guesthouses, homes and hotels right across Nepal.
So glad to come across your blog! We are currently planning a 10 days trip to Nepal with our intrepid 2 year old. We are from Switzerland and have taken our little family on hiking and camping trips since he was born. Living in Thailand we decided to take the plunge and visit Nepal. It’ll be october so much busier, but fits our timetable. Any extra tips for travel with a toddler would be great! My one question would be what the food is like along the way we are vegetarian and not sure if teahouses would cater to that? Thanks a million!
Hi Gilly, we are vegetarian too and the food on the trail is very toddler-friendly! Lots of chapattis, omelettes, pancakes, rice, pasta, porridge, toast, soups, fried vegetables – you will have no troubles at all! In popular trekking areas (Everest, Annapurna, Lantang) you will find lodges to be comparable with anything you might have experienced already (hot showers, warm private rooms) and people are exceptionally helpful with kids. You have made a fantastic decision and will love it!
Hi! Loved your post! We are planning a trip to Nepal around Easter with our 10 year old daughter. We would like to do trekking with her and reading about your trip makes me even more anxious to get there.
Which agency did you use?
Hi Carolin,
So happy that you loved our post. April will be a perfect time to trek in Nepal. We trekked independently: that’s what Wild Travel Story is all about, but I can recommend Social Tours in Thamel, Kathmandu. Contact Raj and tell him we sent you. It’s a locally run guiding business with lots of heart, expect guides, excellent service and affordable too (socialtours.com).
This is one if thr best travel experiences I’ve read in my entire lifetime. absolutely amazing and exactly what i wanted to hear. Thanks a million!!!
How is the mobile reception by the way?
Hi Shihad,
Thanks for your very kind comments! Spread the word about wildtravelstory.com, we’d love to see more parents trekking wild with their kids!
As for your second question, mobile reception differs depending on the trail you choose. We had a fair bit of internet on our trek to Everest Base Camp (especially in Namache Bazaar), but very little in the upper reaches of the Annapurna Circuit and on the trek to Mardi Himal Base Camp.
Enjoy your Nepal adventure, it’s one of my favourite places to hike.
Catherine